Mera Peak

Information about Mera peak and my attempts to climb it.

Mera peak is a Himalayan mountain in eastern Nepal, well known as being one of Nepal’s highest trekking peaks. It is located in the Hinku valley, not far from more famous peaks such as: Makalu, Lohtse and Everest.

Mera peak is composed of three summits: Mera North, 6476 (21247ft); Mera Central, 6461m (21198ft); and Mera South, 6065m (19898ft).

Mera Peak attracts visitors due to it being a trekking peak, and can be climbed with a simple Nepal trekking permit. It is normally climbed from the East up the Mera glacier. It is high enough to provide a view of some of the greatest mountain in the Himalaya, including five 8000m peaks.

My Expeditions to Climb Mera Peak

Autumn 1995

Mera Peak base camp 1995
Mera Peak base camp 1995

In November 1995 I travelled to Nepal with the trekking company Karakoram Experience with the aim of climbing Mera Peak, followed by a traverse of the Amphu Labsta, and finishing off climbing Island Peak.

When we reached the Mera Peak basecamp it started snowing for 36 hours. At that point everything was centred on keeping the tents from collapsing. Once the snow stopped, there was nothing for it but to abandon the trip and retreat to Lukla.

Autumn 1997

Everest seen from summit of Mera Peak
Everest seen from summit of Mera Peak

In 1997 I returned to Nepal with Karakoram Experience to have my second attempt at climbing Mera Peak and traverse the Amphu Labsta.

This time I was more successful, managing to summit Mera Peak. From there the views are spectacular as you are surrounded by 5 of the world’s 8000m peaks:

  • Mount Everest (#1).
  • Lohtse (#4)
  • Makalu (#5)
  • Kangchenjunga (#3).
  • Cho Oyu (#6).

Unfortunately I could not tarry long on the summit as it was so cold up there.

Although we managed to summit, due to unseasonable snow that fell as we arrived, the snow at the Amphu Labsta was too deep to attempt. Thus again we had to retreat to Lukhla via the Zatrwa La. I realised the Amphu Labsta was probably not going to be for me.